Date: 2008-04-22 08:59 Subject: 1055 miles completed, 240 miles left Security: Public

At last, I have cracked the 1000 mile barrier. There have been times when I didn’t think I would get to this point but the messages of support etc have kept me going despite the injury and the recent bad weather. 

Returning to La Spezia after 23 years provided an opportunity to see what had changed. I checked into my hotel near the railway station and set off to see if I could remember my way to the waterfront and I found it with no problems. Parts of the naval base appeared to have been given up for redevelopment and the commercial port had increased in size dramatically. 

Otherwise, the town didn’t seem to have changed much in the intervening years. I decided to make the most of my 2 full days and planned walks that would take me out of town in both directions. The second day was the more interesting as it enabled me to go up into the hills and follow the panoramic route back to town. Being a naval port, I decided that rather than risk getting into trouble I had to restrict the photographs as it was very difficult to take shots without the naval base and associated warships from appearing. 

Having left the rain behind in Genoa, the weather had warmed up nicely which should have alerted me what was to come, During the last night I was in La Spezia there was a most impressive thunderstorm which lasted for almost 3 hours and provided spectacular lightning flashes. For almost half an hour, the storm was directly overhead as there were simultaneous cracks of thunder and flashes of lightning.  

Purchasing my ticket for the train journey to Viareggio was to prove an event not to forget. For most of my other journeys where the train was an intercity or intercity plus service, I have had to reserve a seat. However, the ticket clerk was having none of it and assured me that he knew his job and I didn’t need to reserve a seat, so I boarded the train and came across the first jobs worth I have met on the trip. Not only did he decided that he needed to make a point by giving me a lecture and suggesting that as a tourist I must have given the wrong information he then made me pay not only the extra amount but in effect a completely new fare. 

Viareggio could not come soon enough and thankfully was to provide a chance to recharge the batteries and enjoy the 3 days walking I had planned.  I picked Viareggio because it was on the line from La Spezia to Pisa and apart from knowing that it was on the coast had no other expectations. Apparently, in July and August you cannot move or people and if mid April was anything to go by I could see why. Perhaps the sunny weather had something to do with it, especially as the temperature on Sunday reached 23 degrees Celsius or perhaps it was the mile upon mile of golden sands in each direction. All I know is that on the Saturday, I enjoyed walking six miles along the roadside and then turned round and walked five miles along the sand before returning to the road for the last mile. I decided that such an effort demanded a suitable reward and I enjoyed my first Italian ice cream since entering the country followed later by my first pizza and a couple of beers sitting by the edge of the sea and watching the tide come in. The Sunday, proved just as enjoyable and I wish I had taken my camera because as I walked along the side of then canal leading to the sea, there was a large queue of people alongside a fishing boat. Closer inspection revealed the reason why, it was a fish and chip service, freshly caught fish with chips for 7 Euros – no, I did not succumb.  

Monday morning seemed to follow a pattern, last day so it had to be rain. I set out for a couple of hours walking as my train was not until 1130 despite the fact that it had been raining for most of the night but the chance to take one more walk along the sea front made it worthwhile before heading off to Pisa. 

Whilst in Pisa I will be able to take a couple of planned days off and enjoy myself. I also have to remember to have my photo taken outside a café in the piazza where the leaning tower is located otherwise I will be in severe trouble with one of the Gosport charity people when I get back.