Date: 2008-05-02 16:28 Subject: 1168 miles completed, 122 miles left Security: Public

I am not sure whether it is because I am exhausted or the niggling tendon problem that reminds me now and then it is still there or simply the few miles I have left, but it is finally starting to hit me exactly what I have achieved since January. Fourteen months of detailed planning have paid off and I can almost say “I’ve done it” despite the odd problem here and there.  

Although each days walking gets harder I still manage in excess of 10 miles each day, I feel the effects more and have had to reintroduce the rest days. In fact, I decided to use only one of the days off in Pisa and save the other one for Florence – (sorry Zebedee for the magic roundabout fans among you). Despite the occasional wet day the sun is shining more and more and humidity levels apart, it is a joy to be in the fresh air. 

Somebody e mailed me to say that they enjoyed reading the diaries and perhaps my next job should be as a travel correspondent - so now its time for the touristy bit!!  

Pisa and Florence are steeped in history and each has their landmarks to visit. Both are famous for their bell tower (leaning in Pisa but not in Florence), Duomo and Battistero or Baptistery (dedicated to John the Baptist) not to mention the various museums. Both lie on the River Arno and walks along the river in either city can be very enjoyable 

In Pisa, you pay 15 Euros to climb the tower; 5 Euro’s to visit the Battistero and 2 Euros to visit the Duomo, despite the crowds you can move around with relative ease either in a formal group or as individuals. You will also have to pay to visit the various museums and the only disappointment is that in many you cannot use cameras.  

You have to climb 300 steps in the leaning tower and there are several warning signs for those who have heart conditions or do not like heights. It was hilarious watching people standing around the base of the tower with one arm in the air whilst taking the obligatory photographs. It isn’t a secret sign but the way of demonstrating the extent to which the tower leans when compared to the vertical. 

The Duomo is spectacular with several pieces of art on display and the fresco above the main altar is impressive to say the least. The chapel in the south transept, formerly known as the Coronation of the Virgin is certainly worth stopping to see. The view from the top of the Battistero is worth the climb up the several steps but is not for the faint hearted. Even a walk 

Head off the tourist path in Pisa and you will find other hidden treasures such as the botanical gardens. This is a real haven of peace and quiet despite being less than 200 metres from the tower etc where you can easily spend over an hour just wandering around. From early May it will cost a couple of Euros to get in but it is worth it, especially as more plants come into flower. Other sites of interest are three universities, one for those with ordinary mortals, those considered superior and finally one for geniuses. The striking thing is that the university building for the “superiors” is very grand whereas the university building for the “geniuses” is very plain and unimposing, meaning you have to keep looking to make sure it is the right building. 

Until the late 1960’s early 70’s the church of Santa Maria della Spine was underground beside the river Arno. Following severe flooding a project began to excavate the church and locate it in its present position directly above its original location. I have to admit that it looks very out of place which is perhaps why it attracts so many people. The name for the church comes from the fact that it once preserved a thorn from the crown of thorns that Jesus had placed on his head prior to the crucifixion. 

The train journey to Florence costs less than 10 Euros and here you can visit the Duomo and equally famous dome for free and see Vasari and Zuccari’s fresco of the last judgement which covers the interior of the dome and is spectacular. You do have to pay 3 Euros to visit the site below the cathedral but it is worth the money. You have to join another queue to enter the dome although I do not think that there is a charge. To enter the bell tower will cost 6 Euros and again the queues can be very long as can the one for the Battistero. The cathedral museum located just across the road is worth a visit, cost is 6 Euros with a further 4 Euros if you would like an audio hand set with an English translation. You also need to be prepared to leave either your passport or driving licence with the attendant as a deposit for the hand set but in truth you can manage without the handset.  

Five minutes from the Duomo in one direction is another famous church, Saint Croce, which is where Michelangelo is buried. Five minutes in another direction are the famous bridge, Ponte Vecchio and the equally famous Uffizi museum.  Finally, walk five minutes in yet another direction and you can visit the Medici chapels, which was one of the few landmarks I did manage to get into during my day off. It costs 6 Euros and you cannot use cameras, which is very disappointing because there are many items that would be worthy of photographs. The Medici’s were a famous dynasty in Italy, right up until the death of the last Medici, Anna Maria who died in 1743. One of the chapels contains the tombs of many of them and one room in particular contains the remains of the Medici Princes and in the new sacristy are works by Michelangelo and commissioned by 2 popes (Leo X and Clement VII) to house the remains of their fathers and other members of the Medici family. 

Florence gets very crowded because the 3 main sites are situated in the middle of the city around a busy square. Many people come on day trips and this combined with the large number of hotels in Florence, which are almost always full, makes for a crowded city. Be prepared to queue to see the landmarks, at times the queues can be very lengthy so patience is definitely needed.  

In fact I would go so far as to say that if you come to Florence for just 1 or 2 days you are likely to be very disappointed as you will not gain entry to many of the major sites due to sheer numbers. I spoke to several people waiting in the queues and some had waited over an hour and in one case nearly 2 hours to get in to two of the landmarks. At times it appeared that the organised groups were trying to outdo each other. I also spoke to some local people who said that at times they can become very frustrated and the city council simply do not listen. My overall view is that Florence cannot cope with its fame, which is a shame because the places I did get to visit were worth it but even the famous British tolerance for queues can be sorely tested here.  

Other events of interest included the arrival of football fans for the Rangers v Fiorentina second leg match last night which Rangers won on penalties.

On the media front the Italian press have been terrific and two mainstream regional papers IL Tirreno and La Nazione have both covered the walk. One journalist complimented me on the choice of name for the walk saying it was easy to remember and had made it very personal to the cause, something which isn’t always considered. 

The first official recognition for the walk since setting off has come from the British Ambassador to the Holy See who has invited me to meet him when I arrive in Rome. Such invitations do not get extended everyday and after such a long trek means a great deal.  

Anybody who watched Michael Palin and his “Around the world in 80 days” will remember that he was set challenges to prove that he had actually visited certain places. Well one of my sons did the same to me. These consisted of an authentic Genoa football shirt, Formula one related items from Monaco and an authentic football shirt from Fiorentina. This was completed yesterday and in fact I achieved more because Genoa has 2 football teams, Genoa and Sampdoria and I obtained one from each. In the case of the Fiorentina shirt, I managed to get one specially made for the match with Rangers which has the name of the two clubs involved and the date 01.05.2008 emblazoned on it. Mission accomplished James!! 

Finally, you may recall from my last journal that I had to make sure that I obtained a photo of me outside a certain café in Pisa otherwise I was going to be in rouble when I returned to Gosport. Having checked which café it was - I didn’t want to get the wrong one!! I managed to get the waitress to take the photograph with me in front of the café, so I guess that means I can go home to Gosport safely now. 

So after having my deferred day off, more walking on Saturday and Sunday morning followed by a half rest day, it is on to Grosseto on Monday for the next stage of the walk.